" If In Doubt, Paddle Out!"

These words, which i not long ago read from a biography of mister pipeline (Jerry Lopez); Has been ringing in my head lately.

Making me feel as though i should be in the water when am doubting myself, or just feeling down, then also when am in the water and i get that feeling like i'm not alone!

It has been over 'One Year' since setting out in search of whatever life was willing to throw at me, searching for a new life or just the same one in a different place lol!
But looking back, i really never knew what it was i was looking for, and i still don't?
I travel alone for the most part, i surf alone most days as well, sometimes i'll even search for a wave with nobody on or near, just to be alone!

But to be totally honest, i really miss surfing with my friends! we push each other to get better, heckle each other for fun, and the all mighty party wave! there is no comparison! a bunch of best buds, laughing and sharing a wave together! nope it is truly magical.

The big pond is big indeed! but ya never forget where ya came from that is for sure! to all the North Shore Superior surfers, fresh and well seasoned, to family and friends  ! may waves of joy fill your hearts!

Mele Kalikimaka! I hope to see you all again sooner than later!

Nowhere! in the middle of Somewhere!

More! than just conservation!

History repeats itself ?

A phrase that lingers in the depths of my mind as of late; This morning after a remarkable session in crystal  clear turquoise blue water, a few pods of dolphins showed up for a surf session. There presence; playing in the waves, speeding along then jumping out of the water, to go do it again!!!! Not only did it make me so happy that i smiled broader than i already was, then began to laugh un-controllaby. As if no matter what was going on around me all that mattered was enjoying this moment of existence, both of us, the porpoise and human, together in one medium, and enjoying the undulations together.

What happens to all of us, on this world, if we consume every resource, or pollute it? Sure i'm no saint either, but only due to the cost of things that are good for our planet, because of value! Because of material value! not usefulness or respect, not even behaviour! Just monetary worth; 'who has the bigger statue' seriously look up  the history of Rapa Nui.

I realize money makes it work, that is not my point, my point is that we should really try sustain our lives in a manner that does not result in the complete destruction of whole ecosystems, species and for lack of a better word 'Blood'(sea water) and fresh water which sustains us, we cannot live without either, if you think about it?

In the not so distant future i will tell of a plan of mine that is a little crazy and going to be damn cool!

Peace and Aloha
Liam

Long time , no talk

in the near future, i'll show everyone what was done off these falls!

G'day!,

To all the reader's, it has been a little while!. Much has happened, much is happening, much more to happen yet.

Ebullient! is the word i've chosen in recent times to express how am feeling most days, wind in me hair, water all around. Sometimes we must be away from that which we love the most, so we may realize if it is true or not; Three month's no waves? , Took some time to swim in rivers and creeks, then the ocean for short but sweet swims. Aerial's where practiced in area's which allowed me too, or i decided i was able too!. While doing this i noticed garbage everywhere, and though i'm only one man and to clean it all,  am noticing that it doesn't matter at some rate, i've cleaned a river bank for nothing, as i returned in a couple weeks to the same spot, to find it worse than when i cleaned it the first time, no one has paid me to do any of this, i've made my way down the entire east coast of australia doing just this for no reason but that no one else is.

I've recently heard that a local surfrider foundation chapter has been formed in my home town, Thanks to Laura Loan. They are conducting river, creek and beach clean up.
we as the caretakers of this world( we all live on this rock don't we?) should try to look after it and keep it clean, don't you think? you can look up your local chapter to volunteer.

You can help clean it up for the future! Think about all those times people say "think about your children's future" ; there is toxic waste being dumped, nuclear waste, you name it, I don't know about everyone else but am not a big fan of swimming in polluted water, think of drinking it as well, yuck!!!!
Ya know if you buried it under ground it will still end up in the water!!!

Anyhow I'm done ranting for the moment, get out there and clean up and enjoy life, make the best of it and never look back with regrets

Peace and Aloha
Liam

Inspiration

I'm going way down

Down South

Where I feel a little better about myself

Gonna find some inspiration real soon

Mother Earth and I'm gonna find a way

Cos I'm riding through this valley all the way, yeah, on my own

Gonna learn to, say, live by myself, I'm gonna learn to be alone

Cos I've chained myself to someone's hip, so long, now, I can't see

And I've forgotten who I really was, I forgot about me

Gonna find some inspiration

Gonna take it real slow

No pressure on myself

I'm gonna go with the flow

Cos it seems like the only person I can't escape from is me

So I'm gonna open these old eyes, I'm gonna open them up and see

Cos I'm riding through this valley all the way, yeah, on my own

Gonna learn to, say, live by myself, I'm gonna learn to be alone

Cos it seems like the only person I can't escape from is me

So I'm gonna open these old eyes, I'm gonna open them up and see

Hey, I'm commin' home

Hey, I'm commin' home      "John Butler Trio"

In times of great need, people seek inspiration. I've learned it comes to you in so many forms, it's beautiful, emotional and invigorating, and the more you accept it, the less often you struggle to find it. 

PARADISE

Yesterday afternoon, myself, brothers Chris and Walter, paddled out to a spot called aligators, on the North Shore of O'ahu. the swell was pumping... i'm not going to get into sizing them as there are always so many discrepancies?, so let me just say that if lay down on the ground and look up at anything around you(counter top, fence post, garbage can's) they look huge, so this was enormous... not the biggest that is a whole other story!!!... We all paddled out; fear drilling into the back of our skulls and adrenaline pumping, endorphins just bursting in the brain. Here is the moment when i realize, ( by the look on the other faces it was mutual) that the world must be respected; As a huge set rolls through leaving behind a churning, foaming, white, blue, stew pot of ocean: Gerry Lopez got it rite 'after that wave rolled through everything felt different , as if it had changed, it looked different, even smelt different!' .
I've noticed something about large waves ; as they come your way, they look small, but after looking at this small wave for some time, i kinda think to me self "gee that wave sure is taking it's time gettin -here"... "YA" know why!!! you got it ... cuz it's bloody frigen huge, That's why!!!...
Ever watch a Freight Train rolling down the track looks small from a distance rite, till it gets closer, then you realize how big it is , and how fast it's moving... Same concept, ha ha!...
Well we all survived to surf another day, for myself i caught two waves; one monster i pulled off of, due to a slight shudder in Mitsu beneath me, so i did not risk it, which is good due to the risk of going over the falls(free fall from the top of the wave to the shallow part at the bottom).
These are a couple of pics from around and around , or windy and windy???? Liam

Waimea sunset, gee i wish i were on that boat, but it's all good!

Banzai Pipeline, not sure who?, this was a small one but had someone on it so i snapped this shot! 

Waimea Bay, clean up session... next year this will be me, started training already!!!

Time well wasted!, Training EH!

shifts and rifts

My best goes out to those of japan, and if' i can find a way to help, i will! 

Little tale for all of you all out there, after eatin supper; "or was it dinner": Not sure, anyhow!, 'after eating food', my friend Chris and I were told by our friends Lewis and Philip, about an earth quake, in Japan, and that there might be a Tsunami heading our way!. 

Chris checks his smart phone, and as he gets two lines in to the announcement. The phone lock's up!. just as the words "WHAT THE F- rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRRRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, THE AIR -RADE/TSUNAMI , warning siren, goes off!!!!!... 

And good thing da car is always ready ta go EH!, too the highest point we drive, then realize how much water we do not have!; So we find some bubble wrap in chris's jeep and i got rope from my car.

Set up for water collection, and try to get some sleep. 

Next morning!, a long wait to get down the mountain, luckily all that happened here on the North Shore of O'ahu, a few fish washed up on the highway in Halaiwa, so all is good here. 

Sea ya in the water 

Liam 

p/s way to tired from surfing and slack line to write more details