These words, which i not long ago read from a biography of mister pipeline (Jerry Lopez); Has been ringing in my head lately.
Making me feel as though i should be in the water when am doubting myself, or just feeling down, then also when am in the water and i get that feeling like i'm not alone!
It has been over 'One Year' since setting out in search of whatever life was willing to throw at me, searching for a new life or just the same one in a different place lol!
But looking back, i really never knew what it was i was looking for, and i still don't?
I travel alone for the most part, i surf alone most days as well, sometimes i'll even search for a wave with nobody on or near, just to be alone!
But to be totally honest, i really miss surfing with my friends! we push each other to get better, heckle each other for fun, and the all mighty party wave! there is no comparison! a bunch of best buds, laughing and sharing a wave together! nope it is truly magical.
The big pond is big indeed! but ya never forget where ya came from that is for sure! to all the North Shore Superior surfers, fresh and well seasoned, to family and friends ! may waves of joy fill your hearts!
Mele Kalikimaka! I hope to see you all again sooner than later!