Wednesday, March 23, 2011


Yesterday afternoon, myself, brothers Chris and Walter, paddled out to a spot called aligators, on the North Shore of O'ahu. the swell was pumping... i'm not going to get into sizing them as there are always so many discrepancies?, so let me just say that if lay down on the ground and look up at anything around you(counter top, fence post, garbage can's) they look huge, so this was enormous... not the biggest that is a whole other story!!!... We all paddled out; fear drilling into the back of our skulls and adrenaline pumping, endorphins just bursting in the brain. Here is the moment when i realize, ( by the look on the other faces it was mutual) that the world must be respected; As a huge set rolls through leaving behind a churning, foaming, white, blue, stew pot of ocean: Gerry Lopez got it rite 'after that wave rolled through everything felt different , as if it had changed, it looked different, even smelt different!' .
I've noticed something about large waves ; as they come your way, they look small, but after looking at this small wave for some time, i kinda think to me self "gee that wave sure is taking it's time gettin -here"... "YA" know why!!! you got it ... cuz it's bloody frigen huge, That's why!!!...
Ever watch a Freight Train rolling down the track looks small from a distance rite, till it gets closer, then you realize how big it is , and how fast it's moving... Same concept, ha ha!...
Well we all survived to surf another day, for myself i caught two waves; one monster i pulled off of, due to a slight shudder in Mitsu beneath me, so i did not risk it, which is good due to the risk of going over the falls(free fall from the top of the wave to the shallow part at the bottom).
These are a couple of pics from around and around , or windy and windy???? Liam
Waimea sunset, gee i wish i were on that boat, but it's all good!

Banzai Pipeline, not sure who?, this was a small one but had someone on it so i snapped this shot! 
Waimea Bay, clean up session... next year this will be me, started training already!!!
Time well wasted!, Training EH!

Sunday, March 13, 2011

shifts and rifts

My best goes out to those of japan, and if' i can find a way to help, i will! 

Little tale for all of you all out there, after eatin supper; "or was it dinner": Not sure, anyhow!, 'after eating food', my friend Chris and I were told by our friends Lewis and Philip, about an earth quake, in Japan, and that there might be a Tsunami heading our way!. 
Chris checks his smart phone, and as he gets two lines in to the announcement. The phone lock's up!. just as the words "WHAT THE F- rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRRRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, THE AIR -RADE/TSUNAMI , warning siren, goes off!!!!!... 

And good thing da car is always ready ta go EH!, too the highest point we drive, then realize how much water we do not have!; So we find some bubble wrap in chris's jeep and i got rope from my car.
Set up for water collection, and try to get some sleep. 

Next morning!, a long wait to get down the mountain, luckily all that happened here on the North Shore of O'ahu, a few fish washed up on the highway in Halaiwa, so all is good here. 

Sea ya in the water 

p/s way to tired from surfing and slack line to write more details 

Friday, March 4, 2011

life... in general... as it goes... on and on , and on

Well then guys and gals, too put into perspective the life of a "transient" 'gypsy', it is fast; we go through towns and states and provinces, very quickly to start, then we start to slow down and smell the flower's, (got a pic of that, but not set up for that at the present time... later), we just got back into Canada;(so glad to be back); don't get me wrong our american neighbours are great, very friendly, helpful, and courteous, but i am glad to be in mother Canada, as well as on mother earth! come on now... .

After 5000km and change... in two weeks... roughly... estimated of course, it was probly more? . WA- AWA and I had one hell of an interesting adventure, good times, good people, and good surf, not to mention good time... what i mean by that is, my clock consisted of the sky and dark meant sleep, light meant wake up, and waves meant surf, rocks and trees meant climb, hot sun meant 'siesta'!... oh ya!. 

Hear is a curious question for people! how dark is dark?, if one does not know the meaning of dark?. Yep that is it. In the red wood forest, we found a tree! big enough! to park behind!(so as no one could see us), cooked dinner on a small fire: and CRASHED! it was so dark i couldn't see my hand in front of my face!!!. What  a great sleep we had, in the Red Wood Forest. 
Time well spent, with 2000 year old Giants. 

We drove through a tree, called the chandelier tree(Due to it's shape i guess). We just barely fit through; with the (THULE carrier) on the roof and all.(pictures to come). I must add, WHAT A GREAT TRIP TO 'SOCAL'.
Being out on the road like this, It's a little hard to put into words how good it feels to be following dreams and, just abiding by day and night, all rhythm of the day and night, as nature intended us to!!, I hope that i may follow this rhythm for the rest of my life. 
It brings great peace to my solitude!!!

sea you all in the water somewhere