Wednesday, March 23, 2011


Yesterday afternoon, myself, brothers Chris and Walter, paddled out to a spot called aligators, on the North Shore of O'ahu. the swell was pumping... i'm not going to get into sizing them as there are always so many discrepancies?, so let me just say that if lay down on the ground and look up at anything around you(counter top, fence post, garbage can's) they look huge, so this was enormous... not the biggest that is a whole other story!!!... We all paddled out; fear drilling into the back of our skulls and adrenaline pumping, endorphins just bursting in the brain. Here is the moment when i realize, ( by the look on the other faces it was mutual) that the world must be respected; As a huge set rolls through leaving behind a churning, foaming, white, blue, stew pot of ocean: Gerry Lopez got it rite 'after that wave rolled through everything felt different , as if it had changed, it looked different, even smelt different!' .
I've noticed something about large waves ; as they come your way, they look small, but after looking at this small wave for some time, i kinda think to me self "gee that wave sure is taking it's time gettin -here"... "YA" know why!!! you got it ... cuz it's bloody frigen huge, That's why!!!...
Ever watch a Freight Train rolling down the track looks small from a distance rite, till it gets closer, then you realize how big it is , and how fast it's moving... Same concept, ha ha!...
Well we all survived to surf another day, for myself i caught two waves; one monster i pulled off of, due to a slight shudder in Mitsu beneath me, so i did not risk it, which is good due to the risk of going over the falls(free fall from the top of the wave to the shallow part at the bottom).
These are a couple of pics from around and around , or windy and windy???? Liam
Waimea sunset, gee i wish i were on that boat, but it's all good!

Banzai Pipeline, not sure who?, this was a small one but had someone on it so i snapped this shot! 
Waimea Bay, clean up session... next year this will be me, started training already!!!
Time well wasted!, Training EH!

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